![]() ![]() If you do end up knocking off components, then I can still help you now that I've done these other three. and of course first try the steps above that m0t3x outlined! If you are going to take a stab at it-BE CAREFUL. Give me a shout if you don't want to take the risk of this going down the rabbit hole. It takes about an hour to do it complete with testing, I can send it back open or sealed with your screen. ![]() I use a Hakko FM 2023 mini hot tweezer and a microscope to desolder some of the shield, and then pinch the tiny fuse, pop it off. It is *so* easy to do the repair correctly and replace the fuse with the right tools. Sourcing and replacing these missing components can be a HUGE drag-especially if the solder pads are torn and a line must be traced to the previous component in that trace. Another thought he could just jump a nearby tiny resistor that fell off and shorted the LCD voltage to ground! Another knocked off four small resistors at the power button side of the board under some tape just from trying to remove the shield. One of them didn't even realize that he'd knocked off a resistor and capacitor in front of the fuse just by probing it. I have three iPad mini's now from folks from this very thread that have tried to jump the backlight fuse and then ended up knocking off tiny components around that area. Repair is noble when you use the right tools. This is such a straightforward, inexpensive fix to send out for.it always makes me sad when I get these trainwreck minis sent to me. I've decided to post some DIY fails here. These "DIY rescue" repairs can quickly get very expensive so BE CAREFUL!! The two small components that are missing in this picture are also essential and must be replaced, not jumped, if they are damaged. The capacitor on the left is essential and required. The capacitor just to the right of the backlight fuse is only found on the iPad mini and the iPad 4 and is difficult to source if you damage it and have to replace it. Keep in mind-this picture is an image that I took to send to a customer that came to me from this very thread that knocked off the two essential components circled in red while digging around trying to make the jumper. If you insist on jumping it, you would need to lay a bead of solder across the top of this component with the red arrow. Here is a close up of the iPad mini backlight fuse-ideally you would replace it for a robust long lasting solution which is very straightforward to do with the right equipment and experience. Easy solution is to have to make sure that you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the LCD connector and reconnecting the battery after the LCD has been reconnected to the board during reassembly. It's caused by disconnecting the screen while the iPad powered or possibly turning on the iPad on accident while the screen is unplugged. What causes this problem to happen in the first place? Good question. ![]() It you successfully bypass it with the solder method, make sure you don't make the same mistake again as you may end up with irreparable board damage. To add to this: the fuse is there for protection just like any fuse is in any electrical circuit. 02-.03 ohms) your problems is somewhere else in the circuit. If you have no continuity then lay solder across the top of the fuse, making a bridge for the electricity to flow past it. Put the meter on the continuity setting, touch the right side of the fuse with one lead and the left side of the fuse with the other lead. You can test the fuse for an open first with a multimeter to make sure this is the issue you are having. You do not need jumper wires or anything else. To bypass the fuse all you have to do is lay a bead of solder on top of the fuse that connects the left and right side of the fuse pad. The path of the electricity to operate the back light follows the green line from the top right of the pic thru the fuse marked in red to the connector. Ok let me sum this up so no more people are confused by this pic. ![]()
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